We rolled out of bed the next day and head for the bus station next door to go to Khotan. Along the way, we passed lots of desert, stopped at a town and ate some food, before finally reaching Khotan. Once there we called a musician friend named Ubul whom we met in Beijing. His brother came to get us. We hopped in a taxi and told it to follow him to Ubul’s family home. It was similar to the museum home we had seen the day before. Simple, spacious and very beautiful. We were all exhausted. He and his family brought us tea, delicious sliced watermelons and cantelopes, and a hearty soup to help us sleep. We had met Ubul during a performance at Beijing and I gave him a sketch I had done of him and Omar and he had jammed on percussion afterwards. That was it. From there to the hospitality, warmth and love that he and his family gave us was really amazing.
July 30, 2008
Arriving in Khotan!
July 29, 2008
Cherchen and Bin Chi Leen (Ice Cream)
The next day we woke up, I went to visit my pals at the internet cafe and when the guys woke up we walked around town. We could only get tickets to Khotan for the next day, so we had another day in Cherchen. After checking out a little market where Omar and Andy bought some cool hats, we went to the ice cream place that had broken our hearts the day before. Once there we waited for a while and then ate some waterdown tasting soft serve ice cream.
We really amused the store owner with our enthusiasm for ice cream. After eating a few, we head over to the local museum which was housed in the former home of a local man who..um..doesn’t live any more. The lady there was kinda nuts, but we saw some traditional tools, got a feel for the layout of a traditional home and saw some beautiful carpets in what remained of the household. From there we wandered around some more, asked the music store guy if there were any local musicians we could hang out with, met one who wanted to charge us lots of money to put on a show, and did not seem to understand the concept of just wanting to share music with fellow musicians, so we took off and ate at a nice restaurant.
As we ate, a crowd of kids gathered and watched us. When we stepped out, we went to a general store where the lady there spoke english. We bought some ice cream as many children watched us. We sat down eating ice cream amid giggling children who had been playing outside the restaurant. The general store lady invited us to sit on some stools with her and we talked for a while about our travels. She was really kind and brought us some sliced cantelopes.
After a while, the little street tough from the previous day walked up and smacked Mike on the back. He joined us for a bit and spoke his strange street language then left. I was hoping we’d see him again. We walked around some more, then went back and slept.
Cherchen
The bus kept making stops and the lights would go on all night, so none of us got any sleep by the time we got to Cherchen at around 5am. We walked over to a hotel by the bus station and got ourselves a good rate on 2 double rooms thanks to Mike. I woke up around 11am the same day, and the guys were still getting some much needed sleep. There was no water, so I went downstairs and let the hotel owner know, with the help of my phrasebook. He got the idea and said something, but I didn’t really get it. So I walked back up, hung out, went back down a couple hours later and still nothing. I could not really understand the replies, but the owner and his family were all very friendly and we smiled at not being able to understand one another. One man in the lobby asked me where I was from and when I replied Pakistan and America, he bought me a Future Cola. I asked about an internet cafe and followed directions down the street. Once there I realized I didn’t have my ID on me, so I went back to get it. By then the water was back and I cleaned up before going back to the internet cafe. 
There is a lot of paperwork at the hotels and internet cafes whenever you sign in. Language barriers don’t help this, but the girl and guy at the internet cafe very sweetly typed things into google translate in Chinese and translated their questions to English. They were very patient and polite, as many people I have found here. Another thing that I really appreciate is, even if people might look at you a bit because they don’t see foreigners all the time, they still extend the exact same politeness and courtesy to you as they would any Chinese person, for the most part. There are many sweet polite things that people do, like handing you change with both hands in a very respectful manner, or saying there’s no need to thank when you say thank you etc. There are many polite customs here, and it adds something good to even the smallest interactions with people.
My friends met me at the internet cafe once they were ready and we set out to wander the streets of Cherchen. Andy had found some fresh sesame nan, so we got a few and munched on that. We stopped at a music store, because music always trumps food when it comes to priorities and picked up some traditional Uigher music cds. There Mike met an interesting, assertive character who shall be referred to as the Low Rider for her interesting bicycling techniques. She joined us as we explored the market, funny babies with poop ready pants, and settled down for food at a restaurant.
After that we walked down the road through some neighborhoods with beautiful, ornate, wood doors and brightly painted metal ones. Along the way we met many friendly people, and walked through some corn and sunflower fields before making our way back to the hotel.
There is a lot of paperwork at the hotels and internet cafes whenever you sign in. Language barriers don’t help this, but the girl and guy at the internet cafe very sweetly typed things into google translate in Chinese and translated their questions to English. They were very patient and polite, as many people I have found here. Another thing that I really appreciate is, even if people might look at you a bit because they don’t see foreigners all the time, they still extend the exact same politeness and courtesy to you as they would any Chinese person, for the most part. There are many sweet polite things that people do, like handing you change with both hands in a very respectful manner, or saying there’s no need to thank when you say thank you etc. There are many polite customs here, and it adds something good to even the smallest interactions with people.
My friends met me at the internet cafe once they were ready and we set out to wander the streets of Cherchen. Andy had found some fresh sesame nan, so we got a few and munched on that. We stopped at a music store, because music always trumps food when it comes to priorities and picked up some traditional Uigher music cds. There Mike met an interesting, assertive character who shall be referred to as the Low Rider for her interesting bicycling techniques. She joined us as we explored the market, funny babies with poop ready pants, and settled down for food at a restaurant.
After that we walked down the road through some neighborhoods with beautiful, ornate, wood doors and brightly painted metal ones. Along the way we met many friendly people, and walked through some corn and sunflower fields before making our way back to the hotel.
There are lots of cute and funny little kids here. Often, little ones, seeing us foreigners will shout out “Haaalllooo!” with the happiest little smile you have ever seen while walking past with their moms.
The little boy in the last pic of the third image met us at lunch. He played with us all during our sit at the restaurant. When we walked outside, he picked out a special booger from his nose and then hugged a leg off each of us..well except the Low Rider. He pulled away from her. She likes kids..but I’m not sure they like her 
.
.We rested a bit, then head out to get Andy from the internet cafe and check out some music at a club with the Low Rider. The music was fun and seeing some people dance was also cool, but it was a monday night and the place was fairly empty so it lacked a certain energy.
Andy, Omar and I head out to explore a little further outside. We came upon an open area full of pool tables, food stalls and people enjoying the night. We tried some iced, yoghurt flavored with sugar and pineapple juice that we added.
We met a very sweet Han Chinese woman who was born in Cherchen. She explained and translated for us with the Uigher shopkeeper. She talked about how her family had moved there from across China for better economic opportunities, then also mentioned a 24 hour ice cream parlor. She had no idea how much joy that brought us. She’d probably never seen 3 grown men so excited about ice cream. We got directions, then walked over to it, only to find it open, but all out of ice cream. This was worse than the time we found the ice cream machine shop, full of wonderful ice cream dispensing machines…but no ice cream.
Andy, Omar and I head out to explore a little further outside. We came upon an open area full of pool tables, food stalls and people enjoying the night. We tried some iced, yoghurt flavored with sugar and pineapple juice that we added.
We met a very sweet Han Chinese woman who was born in Cherchen. She explained and translated for us with the Uigher shopkeeper. She talked about how her family had moved there from across China for better economic opportunities, then also mentioned a 24 hour ice cream parlor. She had no idea how much joy that brought us. She’d probably never seen 3 grown men so excited about ice cream. We got directions, then walked over to it, only to find it open, but all out of ice cream. This was worse than the time we found the ice cream machine shop, full of wonderful ice cream dispensing machines…but no ice cream. 
A little broken hearted, we decided to return the following day. After a long dark walk, we got some sleep.
July 28, 2008
In Korla
In the morning we dragged ourselves out of bed for some complimentary breakfast. There were sesame breads with bean paste, eggplant, tofu, milk, vegetable dumplings etc, all very good. Next we grabbed bus tickets for the evening. That’s what it’s going to be like for a while, as we travel through towns, not necessarily known for points of interest, making our way west.
This town is known for the oil industry. Most of the shops we saw were all selling machine parts etc. The day was somewhat relaxed. We left that night for Cherchen.
July 27, 2008
Korla
I went to out hunt down an internet cafe while the guys were sleeping. Phrase book in hand, I walked the streets, each person pointing me in the general direction until I found it. After updating some blog stuff and sending out some emails, I head back to the hotel and waited for the guys who had left in the meantime. The came back with bus tickets for that evening.
We had planned to go see a glacier that Tasawar had mentioned and we also wanted to see Tasawar again and meet up with Ubul, a drummer we had met in Beijing who was coming back to this area that day. At that point we were running low on time and could not get in touch with either, so we just relaxed for a bit then caught the bus to Korla. Thus began out turn south across the province, to eventually reach Kasghar.
The bus was very nice, and the scenery outside was breathtaking. We passed all kinds of rocky mountains, gravel trails, desert sand with rock formations poking out etc as the sun made the sky and clouds glow orange and pink as it sunk ever lower. Eventually we were driving in the dark, along a highway with virtually nothing around. We made a few stops along the way before reaching Korla in the dead of night.
There were still some general stores and hotels open. We trudged around with our backpacks, comparing prices, but ended up staying at the only place that could accept foreigners by law. I think it may be a licensing issue or something.
So, at around 2am we waited as the guy at the counter of our hotel filled out forms with our passport info…very…very…slowly.
Finally we went up to sleep, agreeing to get the passports back in the morning.
July 26, 2008
Tian Chi
Mike was feeling tired, so the rest of us hired a car and went out of the city to Tian Chi (Heavenly Lake). The drive out took us past barren desert and rock, past some Kazakh Yurts, and a river until we arrived up in the mountains. From there we walked up many, many stairs, following a beatiful river, up to a waterfall, a gorgeous greenish blue lake, and up to a second larger lake with boats. We wanted to continue up to a small structure at the top, but ran out of time. We ended up walking around a narrow trail with a guide rail, around the second lake, before we started back to the bottom. It was a tiring walk, especially since we never really get a chance to fully recover before the next walk. There’s too much to see and too little time. It was amazing to be up in such a beautiful place. We spent time on the way up resting at spots and just taking it in. The waterfall, the lakes and river were all very soothing, and peaceful.
From there we returned to the hotel, got Mike and met up with a Pakistani man named Tasawar, whom we met on the bus the day before. He met us at a restaurant near the hotel. Mike stayed back to rest and we went to the Uigar market again, for some more ice cream. We checked out some musical instruments, talked at length to Tasawar who spoke Uighar also. After that we checked out a large department store much like one you would find in the US. It was fun trying to explain that Andy wanted to buy a towel. After being led to many other things, we finally found one. I met a super cool robot on the way out.
We thanked Tasawar for his hospitality then grabbed the bus back to the hotel for some sleep.
July 25, 2008
Urumqi
The next morning, still enroute to Urumqi, I awoke to sleepy eyed children stumbling out of bed, tiny toes all over. I joined the herd, borrowed some toothpaste and cleaned up a bit. My pal Li Zhou, hooked me up with some green tea that he had generously purchased for me and we listened to some music on our headphones, hoping to make it through the day as the little savages woke up.
Lots of terrifying giggling followed. Omar and I escaped for a while to the next car, but the evil little cats found us, popping their little heads in one by one, creeping up behind me and delivering painful blows to my back. I held back my tears, trying desperately not to cry in front of everyone as they set their sites on a new prey. We were sitting in the aisle, outside the compartment of one of the blue shirted train staff. He made the mistake of leaving his door open while reading a newspaper. The cats were jumped through the doorway, looking under his bed, on top of it and all around, asking tons of questions and settling in next to him. He was clearly in shock. Fearing for his life, he played it cool, then bravely tried to shoo them away without any luck. They giggled and ran around his compartment before leaving when they felt like it and slamming his door shut behind.
They joined Omar and myself in the hall for a bit, and I had to subdue them with some tickling, before they ran off again. Finally we reached the train station at Urumqi. We said our goodbyes and I exchanged info with a college professor and Li Zhou, the high schooler. One of the friendly kids offered to help me pull my heavy backpack down. We went out the platform and the herd lined up for a headcount. Omar, Andy, Mike and I waved good bye and head out. It was raining a bit as we walked down into a Muslim noodle shop. The locals stopped and watched us. Two kids with aviation suited ears stood newspaper hawking forgotten and watched us. They unfroze when I pulled out my camera. We ate some food, then grabbed a bus to another part of town to look for a place to stay. Prices varied a lot so we kept looking until we found a cheaper place. The room was being cleaned so we left our backpacks with them and head out to see the city. We walked around a bit, then hopped on a bus to the Xinjiang Autonomus Region Museum. The museum had amazing exhibits on the wide range of diverse people living in the Xinjiang province. From European/Russian looking Tartars, to Mongols, Han Chinese, Uzbeks, Uighurs and many more. Exhibits showed beautiful handicrafts, clothes, musical instruments and other cultural effects from each of group of people. Other sections of the museum showed excavated remains from ancient civilizations, including mummies. All in all, it was a beautiful museum though it underscored the reality of the province.
From there we head over to the Erdaoqiao Market, which is surrounded by Uighur neighborhoods. On the bus, we befriended some Uigher students who showed us the way as well as a Pakistani businessman working in the area. We went with the students, down to the marketplace. We had heard some nasty racist things said about the Uighur people that really made us mad, before we got there. Various negative attributes were prescribed to this entire group of people by some other people at the museum. I actually met some Uigher students while sitting in the lobby of the museum as well and they were, as most people tend to be, very warm and gracious. The students we met on the bus, were likewise very warm and friendly to us. Certainly you have to take precautions whenever you are in a new place and with new people, but that goes equal for all people, and you don’t want to become so paranoid that you fail to see the beauty that exists in the wonderful people you meet along the way.
We looked at music instruments and I saw that a few things I negotiated down in Xian had starting prices of half of what I haggled down to. It was a fun marketplace, with so many diverse people, as we had seen in the exhibits in the museum. This area had a very different feel with signs in Chinese, English, Uighur and some Russian. Four scripts and a multitude of ethnicities, styles of dress etc poured in from all around. There were some mosques, and a beautiful square.
We looked around for some fresh nan, but all we could find were stacks of cold, hard bread at all the shops we went to. Finally, we walked over to an area that was full of outdoor eateries and asked around. Many people did not speak Chinese here, so we had to try and use Arabic and Farsi words with some English and lots of hand gestures and funny faces to try and communicate. People were very friendly. We ate some amazing watermelon and I picked up some traditional music cds. Mike ate some spicy noodles and chickpeas, with flavors quite unique from what we had sampled in other parts of China thus far. At the noodle stand, we finally managed to explain that we were looking for fresh nan, straight out of the tandoor (clay oven). He talk to another kid who had his own stall. Finally the kid at the other stall decided he was going to take us. He walked us all around, weaving through crowds, as we struggled to keep up, until we had walked across a good cross section of the amazing Uighur neighborhood and arrived at a nan shop. They had closed and the boys working there smiled as our nan hunter friend explained what we were after. After much talking, they agreed to bake a batch of smaller sesame buns. Omar tried really hard to get them to make a few nans, but they weren’t having it. It was a tremendous amount of effort to start the tandoor, and prepare it for baking bread. Three boys, in a rythmic patterm dunked their head and arms into the firey tandoor, placing the dough balls on the inner walls. They joined us outside after getting the whole laborious process started. A crowd of people formed around us as we spoke to the boys inside and outside the shop. We greeted them with a Salam (Muslim greeting) and that helped to endear us to them instantly, but perhaps more than that just our silliness made them happy. Omar and Andy decided to learn how to count in Uighur. None of these kids or adults spoke Chinese. They looked at us very confused as we explained 1-2-3-4-5, counting on fingers and they laughed and repeated, until finally some people in the crowd figured out what we were after and they taught us.
It made everyone really happy, as we waited for the buns to cook. Omar pulled out a page of Uighur phrases from his book and tried them out, much to everyone’s delight. People laughed, but the crowd was actually very friendly. They warmed up to us kids, and lots of little ones crowded around and watched. We kept watch of our things as you need to in any crowd..though I still lost my camera that one time in Mongolia…but people were genuinely curious. The boy who brought us about a mile to the nan shop refused any food or anything in return. He simply helped us and then sped off on his way back to work. The kids at the tandoor didn’t try to make any extra money off of us, or be mean or anything but the nicest hosts one could ask for. The humored our silliness and we all spoke to pockets of the crowd in our broken words and smiles.
Eventually the bread was ready and we had 5. One of the boys at the tandoor offered to take a photo of the inside of the tandoor for me and I gave him my camera to do just that. The people were so friendly do us and asked for nothing in return. We offered some entertainment, but that was really all they wanted. One man even offered to let us stay with him, though we graciously declined. One new mother, with her seven month old baby in hand spoke Chinese and communicated with Mike. Andy shared music on his laptop, and had a huge crowd of kids around him and a generously lent hat from one of the children. These were not people who had much in the way of monetary riches, but they were some of the warmest, sweetest people we could ever hope to meet. I think often if you put out a good feeling regardless of whether you feel you are getting it back or not, it brings out that in those around you. It doesn’t work every single time, in every situation, but it is the only way I know to make being amidst strangers so enjoyable.
We made our way to the bus station, exhausted, with the help of the Chinese speaking mother with her cute baby in her arms, and the kind man who had offered us his hospitality. We said goodbye and hopped on the bus. Finding the tiny hotel at night proved challenging. We all had some idea, but it took us a long time to trace our steps back and find the landmarks we needed to get there. Eventually we did, only to be told that we had been given the room in error.
Foreigners were not allowed to stay in that hotel, and so we would have to find some other arrangements. They refunded our money and graciously called around to try and find another place. We went off in search of places, carrying our heavy backpacks, but their suggestions were outragiously expensive. Apparently it is common to run into the situation where lower cost and lower quality hotels are not allowed to house foreigners, likely more out of maintaining an image than anything.
So we pulled out the lonley planet guide, called a place near the train station and found rooms at low prices that allowed foreigners. The place is the least nice place we have stayed at. The bathrooms have friendly short doors so you can talk to your neighbors while handling your business, but the halls are dark and instead of keys, you get tags that you show the floor attendant who unlocks your door. Still, thanks as usual to Mike’s hard work and Chinese language skills, we got out of an annoying situation and found a decent place to sleep at night.
July 24, 2008
Train Ride
The next morning, we caught an early morning buffet before running off to the train station. There were older people playing badminton with children along the way.
Each town have visited has its own feel to it. Lanzhou felt laid back and more comfortable than some of the other cities we visited on this trip.
Each town have visited has its own feel to it. Lanzhou felt laid back and more comfortable than some of the other cities we visited on this trip.
We boarded the train with no idea what was in store. Early on, we noticed that there seemed to be lots of children in this train car. In fact there were probably 6 children to every adult on it.
Securing train tickets last minute is difficult and necessary in many of the places we are travelling. These tickets ended up being in the same car, but in seperate bunks. I traded my seat with a lady so she could be with her daughter, and ended up with an older couple below me and children all around. I was in the middle bunk on the left out of 3 bunks on either side bringing the total to 6 instead of the usual 4 that were on previous trains.
Securing train tickets last minute is difficult and necessary in many of the places we are travelling. These tickets ended up being in the same car, but in seperate bunks. I traded my seat with a lady so she could be with her daughter, and ended up with an older couple below me and children all around. I was in the middle bunk on the left out of 3 bunks on either side bringing the total to 6 instead of the usual 4 that were on previous trains.
I stared out the window, sitting in the narrow train aisle for a while, watching the mountains push off into the distance and turn to flat planes. After a while, I climbed up to my middle bunk. Just as my head touched the pillow a stream of children came racing into the compartment. Some had tried to speak to me earlier, but I smiled and explained that I didn’t understand Chinese. Now all these kids were back, led by their solution; a little bespectacled girl with braces. She said hello as ten or twenty faces giggled. She asked if she could get a picture with me. I smiled and agreed. I climbed down and sat on the lower bunk with an older lady already sitting there and the little girl’s aunt squeezed in with children in the aisle. The little girl grabbed my arm and posed with a huge smile much to the glee of the army of children. A few cameras were passed around for photos including mine. She said my smell was nice, but I think she meant smile…long train rides don’t do much good for smells.
I laughed so hard while the kids were taking photos. I pointed to “I don’t understand” in the Chinese phrasebook to the girl’s aunt. The kids were all excited (I think in general), and the little heartbreaked said “I love you.” Hahahaha! Limited english is so cute.
I figured there could be no more cuteness to top that, so I went to back to bed and managed to stay there for a good 8 hours or so.
I was wrong. I awoke and the kids had mobbed my friends. There was an intense game of cards at one aisle table with Andy and Mike, a happy kid we named Sgt. Bellpepper and many other smiling faces with random missing teeth. There was music playing through the train speakers and Omar was teaching kids math and learning Chinese. The aisle was packed with nervous kid energy. It was too much cuteness for so small a space. My English speaking pal it turns out loved everyone else too, and though I was a little devastated, I managed to pull myself together and sit at on of the aisle tables. The party train slipped past flat, dry land with mountains in the distance. Every so often, a vendor squeezed down the packed aisle hawking drinks, books and food, as tiny tots squirmed past through spaces that did not exist. The staff on the train was actually smiling (except the dining car, they were not in service as usual).
I stared out the window a bit, then pulled out my phrase book and spoke to a high school boy named Li Zhou.
He was very quiet, but helped me with some pronounciation. Through him and Mike I learned that the kids were returning from a field trip to Beijing back to Urumqi, where they lived. Li zhou liked Chinese rock music, had a twin brother and sister, and gave us the name of an ice cream parlor in Urumqi. The kids were very sweet and bursting with energy, excitement and kindness.
I heard Andy and Omar start some music down the aisle and joined them. We soon had kids giggling and clapping around us. Two tiny, shy, cat like girls kept running up and then running away. They were trouble. Andy pulled out a Chinese wind instrument and we sang with that for a while. At one point, a boy with broken glasses jumped in and shared his talents on Andy’s Chinese instrument. He was very good and had a few little girls chasing after him after his performance. It was so much fun singing and playing with these kids.
I heard Andy and Omar start some music down the aisle and joined them. We soon had kids giggling and clapping around us. Two tiny, shy, cat like girls kept running up and then running away. They were trouble. Andy pulled out a Chinese wind instrument and we sang with that for a while. At one point, a boy with broken glasses jumped in and shared his talents on Andy’s Chinese instrument. He was very good and had a few little girls chasing after him after his performance. It was so much fun singing and playing with these kids.
The train stopped at a number of stations along the way, where we bought instant noodles, tofu and one time ice cream which we shared with Li Zhou. After the music, the little cats became bold and approached me with evil little smiles. They struck terror in my heart with swiping claws and evil giggles. To hide my fear, I started drawing one of them. That made them curious. Four tiny eyes watched me. Finally, I added a super cool handlebar mustache (always a crowd pleaser) and some chin hair, but the little cats didn’t approve. This is always a challenge when travelling. It is easy to offend one from another culture, unintentionally, through no fault of your own, with only the best of intentions through what seems to oneself to be a good gesture of friendship.
They made little frowns and threatened me with some harshly shouted Chinese. Petrified, I handed them the pen and notebook, begging for mercy (sure, I towered over them even sitting down, but these things were ferocious!).
They scurried down the hall, then returned after a bit having added some flying hair and funny teeth to the drawing. I guess once the rage subsided, they decided to draw some pretty birds, fish and a sun on the following page, before the madness took hold again and they came charging back at me, told me what was what and handed me their evil creations.
Andy came to my rescue by becoming the human chomping machine, with long arms as chompers. He sent them running back down the hall, only to return, then flee many times after.
Just to note, Sgt. Bellpepper, (the gentlemen in the green wahaha shirt) is a fascinating card player. He is a thing of wonder to behold when he plays cards, climbs bunks or squirms away from little girls who try to make him sing. Eventually the savage little beasts turned to slumber and so did we.
Just to note, Sgt. Bellpepper, (the gentlemen in the green wahaha shirt) is a fascinating card player. He is a thing of wonder to behold when he plays cards, climbs bunks or squirms away from little girls who try to make him sing. Eventually the savage little beasts turned to slumber and so did we.
July 23, 2008
Lanzhou
The next morning we caught a train to Lanzhou. We arrived in the afternoon. Just behind the train station, you can see beautiful mountains. We grabbed our things and trudged across the street to find a place to stay the night. After some searching and bargaining, we ran into a man who ran a hotel down the street. He showed us the place and we took it.
After cleaning up we walked around to explore the city. We ended up grabbing a bus to the Yellow River. The sun was setting and it was an amazing sight.
Along the boardwalk, there were many families with children. Many were learning to rollerblade, or just playing.
A little further, there was some Chinese music playing with a group of mostly older women and some men being led through a synchronized dance by a very enthusiastic, talented, dancing man. We sat and watched for a while. It was so peaceful there, watching people relax along the Yangtze. Omar and Andy joined the dancing for a bit.
Later, we grabbed some chocolate cake, having failed to find an ice cream parlor. Having gotten our chocolate fix, we went back to the hostel to sleep
July 22, 2008
Terracotta Warriors
The guys woke up around noon, giving me plenty of time to update the blog etc. It rained all day. We head out to the bus station and caught a bus to see the museum of the terracotta warriors just outside the city of Xian. Early in the trip we suffered a setback when Andy forgot his oreos on the bus. Inspired by the Terracotta Warriors and their participation in the 2008 Beijing Olympics the group managed to put it behind us and continue. We started with the museum and worked our way up from Pit 2, to Pit 3 and finally the massive Pit 1. Each one made us more excited to see the next. It is a fairly mad creation, but the scale of it is quite amazing. I liked the horses with their riders and chariots most. The museum itself is really nice, though the hawkers try a bit too hard. On the way out you pass a ton of stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs and just when you think you have passed through them, there is a huge barrage of hawkers standing with handfuls of trinkets that you have to navigate to get to the buses. Afterwards we head back to Xian.
Mike and Omar decided to stay in, while Andy and I head to the South Gate of the walled city where we were told there were some music performances. The rain probably prevented any street music that night, so we met up with a bead maker whom Omar and Andy had met the night before. We walked down a lane of empty western looking bars before we came upon a more traditional looking establishment. We went upstairs to a room with a stage and enjoyed various traditional music performances, along with some food. I had some mushrooms with peppers and rice. The bead maker had engraved two flutes with Andy and Omar’s names as a gift for them.
We spent some time trying to play them. He showed us how, though Andy had better luck. I managed a sketch of a man who was like a one man band with a leg playing percussion, and a long string insrument with snake skin on it as well as other small instruments on each limb. He seemed to tell an interesting and humorus story, but your guess is as good as mine. We jumped in a cab and head back after the show ended, thanking our host graciously. I spent a few hours that night updating emails and photos. The hostel owner; Bob was interested in some of my animation work so I shared that and he shared some beautiful photography of his own from trips to Southern China. 
